So, in my overzealous declaration of Motherland love, I neglected to mention the lil' "energy crisis" facing the country. The short and tall of it- I just had my first shower since I left the U.S. At the International Student Hostel (ISH), there hasn't been running water since we’ve arrived, but the lights are on... for now. We do have a spigot on the ground floor where those fortunate enough to own a coveted bucket can finagle a shower. If you're equipped with soap, a bucket, and some sweet-talk for the temperamental outdoor faucet, you get a chance to freshen up a bit. Anyway, our homegirl Ama (my bandmate Nana's girlfriend from Ohio State) is also studying abroad here this semester, and her dad's a justice on the Ghanaian Supreme Court. She's staying at his crib and thankfully she's kind enough to share some of her resources with us (including a working cold shower and the relatively higher-speed internet that I'm enjoying as I type.) To my fellow Americans: showers are a good thing. Do NOT take them for granted.
In other news, I don't have a roommate yet, but Ashley and Jason both have American roomies. There are still some American students coming to campus tomorrow, but I'm hoping that I'll be greeting a Ghanaian roommate come next week. We'll see.
Walking around campus has been an interesting experience as well. Being one of two brothas in a group of 30 (with 90% white females) may not be the best way to gain street cred with my Ghanaian brothas, but things have gone well with the local students I've encountered so far. Luckily, I've been able to interact freely with a few Ghanaian student tour guides, and have somehow avoided too much American awkwardness. Most returning students get here next week, so I'll get more of a chance to meet up with non-international students then.
The main thing that's stuck me the most has been a powerful, almost paradoxical concept to an American mind: BLACK HEGEMONY. Never in my life have I ever witnessed a society where black people are presented as human beings with no racial implications. Not "diversity," "tokens," or "affirmative action." Just people! My first taste of this was straight off of the airplane, when I saw a large number of billboards with smiling Ghanaians advertising everything from soft drinks, cell phones, to public service announcements. These ads weren't part of a racialized marketing appeal and they sure weren't a strategy to target the "black demo." They were Ghanaian people selling (in many cases) Ghanaian products to Ghanaian people. TV commercials and programming, the same deal. A novel idea, indeed. After spending some time on campus, I've also seen a large amount of statues and busts of scholars and distinguished individuals who have come through the University of Ghana. These people, ranging from Chancellors to symbolic representations of academic achievement, are displayed with diplomas, caps and gowns, and the like. All of these people are portrayed through uncompromising artistic representations of black academics. Can’t say I’ve ever seen a single one of these in the States. Anyone reading this who knows me knows I’m not a racist. But you’ve gotta be crazy if you don't think this is refreshing.
4 comments:
Hayling! I didn't know you were going to be in Ghana. I just scanned the blog, but I assume you're at Legon?
Anyway, you're going to have a lot of fun. I was just in the AShanti region about a month ago setting up a village library near Kumasi.
Some things you have to do: Travel to Tamale, in the north. It's a bit different, the people don't speak Twi, there are more Muslims and its generally a bit poorer.
Be sure to get a "Northern shirt" while you're there (they're these shirts with wild patterns that you can rock over a dress shirt, very fashionable)
Definitely email me if you have any questions you wouldn't want to ask the ppl over there - I'll give you full disclosure. And I can give you the names of some family friends in Accra as well, in case you need a good, home-cooked Ghanaian meal or a shower (the good rhing is that if you travel around Ghana you can get really cheap hotels - like 20-30 dollars - that are probably the equivalent of 4-5 star American hotels - including hot water with water pressure)
Anyway man, enjoy the motherland, learns some Twi, soak it all in.
Peace
Great reading. Great writing. We all eagerly await the next installment. Blogs rule! Lots of love coming at cha! See more personal comments on your e-mail.
Mom
Great commentary little brother. You are surely going to returned renewed, refreshed, and ready to bring the ruckus to the US and our communities. Enjoy!
Interestingly enough we share yet another experience...I was three days in Mpumulanga before I could shower. Showers are a blessing!!!!
Love you! Be safe. Live and Learn!
Hey there!! I just read your first two blogs to Jelani and we are extremely fascinated with your experience and perspectives that you've written about. Keep up with the updates (it's like storytime over here) unless it cuts into your schoolwork and immersion. I love you so much and am very proud of you for venturing out of your comfort zone. It's very hard for us, but essential to our development. The lack of showers alone would serve as enough of a teaching experience for me!!! Lots of hugs and kisses coming from Washington DC.
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